In November 2010, French cuisine joined the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. With this list, first established in 2008, the UNESCO aims at "protecting and safeguarding the world's cultural heritage", as "no development can be sustainable without a strong cultural component". But how did the gastronomic meal of the French earn its place in such a prestigious list?
An ancient traditional practice
The French meal story goes back to the end of the Middle-Age, with the banquets of the royal courts. The table setting is classy, with a longière, a narrow tablecloth, bordering the table. The feast consists of numerous dishes, brought successively in regulated services, monitored by the butler. Each servant has a specific role: the cupbearer pours the wine, the fruiterer serves dried fruits and nuts… It can even host musicians who ring for the service change. The banquet is a status symbol through which the rich can show their wealth.
The tradition continues through time. At the end of the XVIIth century, Louis XIV commits himself to this ritual every day. This ceremonial public meal is then known as "the Royal Table", and the King eats with the Queen, his children and his grandchildren in his antechamber. All platters are now in gold or silver, a rare luxury in the Middle-Age. The whole meal lasts an hour and is divided in four services: the starters, the meat and salad, the dessert, and the fruits. It is well-known that Louis XIV disliked this long and formal ceremony, symbol of power, and preferred the supper where he could invite close friends, enjoying a more relaxed atmosphere.
And this friendly atmosphere is exactly the spirit of the French meal that developed with peasant feasts and celebrations in the XIXth century. With the Revolution and the end of the feudal order, farmers can enjoy a larger part of their agricultural production and focus on a better quality of life, resulting in more of these long meals for special occasions such as birthdays or the coming of spring. These organized feasts bring families closer together in a warm atmosphere, while enjoying local products carefully selected. This extraordinary way of enjoying a meal is what made the French gastronomy famous.
And today, does it still exist?
Though this way of life is not as common as at the time of Louis XIV, the French still enjoy from time to time these special meals. The structure has changed a bit: first, you drink the apéritif; a starter, cold or warm, follows; then, fish or meat with vegetables; the cheese, sometimes with a salad; the dessert, either as fruit or a pastry; and, for the bravest, liqueurs to finish. It can last hours and is usually organized for birthdays or meetings with friends.
But it is still a way of showing influence, wealth and power, especially in politics. In July 2022, President Emmanuel Macron hosted a dinner at the Palace of Versailles, traditional place of state dinners, for the UAE President Sheik Mohammed. By promoting French cuisine, the dinner also promotes the French economy: gastronomy, oenology and agribusiness are among the leading sectors of economic growth in France.
This gastrodiplomacy has become an essential tool in public diplomacy, as it is both a way to engage in partnership by showing the country's wealth and a way to further protocol ("the easiest way to win hearts and minds is through the stomach"!). But beware diplomatic mistakes! In 1999, Iranian President Mohammed Hatami refused to come, complaining about the presence of wine at the table, deteriorating the relationship between the two countries.
But in the end, one thing is for sure: the stereotype of greedy French with a baguette, cheese and wine under their arm isn't coming to an end anytime soon…
Tess Mimoun
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