Rice has been grown in northern Italy since the 15th century when cultivars of Riz Japonica  - a short grain high starch rice -  were introduced to the wetlands of Tuscany, most likely via Spain, and later to Lombardy.  Today it is extensively grown in the Po Valley of Northern Italy, and while predominantly eaten in the north, it is eaten throughout Italy, mainly as a first course alternative to pasta.

There are hundreds of risotto recipes, perhaps the most famous being saffron flavoured Risotto alla Milanese, but this recipe marries rice with butter, onions, thyme, white wine, Parmigiano and the   abundant highly flavoured lemons grown throughout southern Italy.  

There are 3 principle types of Italian rice, Arborio, Carnaroli and Vialone Nano. The latter two are higher in starch, leading to a creamier sauce, but most home cooks achieve excellent results with Arborio. 

With lemons, the juice provides pleasing acidity, but the classic lemon flavour is only found in the skin, so it is crucial  to use unwaxed organic fruit so that the skin can be zested and eaten.  

I normally serve this dish  as the perfect  accompaniment to pan fried crispy skinned fish such as salmon fillets, but it also makes a very refreshing light starter before a main course such as roast monkfish with garden vegetables.  

Preparation time:  10 minutes  
Cooking time:  30 minutes
Serves 4

Ingredients
380 grams of Arborio rice
1 onion, peeled and finely diced
50 grams unsalted butter
50 ml dry white wine
Grated zest of 2 lemons
Strained juice of 2 lemons
1.5 litres fresh vegetable stock (see Top Tip below)
20 grams grated Parmigiano
Leaves from 1 sprig of fresh thyme
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

Method
Heat the butter over medium flame and gently sauté the diced onions until golden and translucent
Add the rice and toast in the butter and onions for 1-2 minutes
Add the white wine and lemon juice and stir occasionally to prevent sticking
When the wine and lemon juice have virtually evaporated, start adding the stock, a ladleful at a time
When the rice starts to get dry, add another ladleful and continue stirring 
Continue until the  rice  is cooked al dente and is creamy, about 25 minutes 
Add the lemon zest, Parmigiano, thyme leaves and mix well
Serve with pan fried crisp skinned salmon fillet, buttered steamed asparagus and a crisp white wine such as Pinot Grigio or Albariño 

Top Tip:  to make home made vegetable stock, add a peeled onion, a washed carrot and a peeled celery rib and 5 grams of salt  to 1.5 litres of water, then  simmer for 30 minutes. Then strain through a conical sieve, pressing the vegetables to extract as much flavour as possible.   If time is pressing, feel free to use store bought vegetable stock, or stock made with hot water and a vegetable stock cube. 

Serving suggestion: with pan fried crispy skin salmon fillets